Growing up in the Bronx, Paola Velez’s happy place was the bodega, a unique world full of colour and flavour where the shelves were stocked with everything from M&M’s to Muenster cheese to majarete (Caribbean corn pudding)—and, of course, its own cat (IYKYK). Before she was the James Beard–nominated chef, Cherry Bombe cover girl, social media darling, and cofounder of the grassroots social action network, Bakers Against Racism, Paola was a bodega kid with a taste for Warheads, Hostess cupcakes, ice pops, and Malta soda.

Paola’s debut cookbook, inspired by these treasures and other ingredients available at corner stores everywhere, is a love letter to both her Dominican heritage and her New York City roots; its more than 100 recipes burst with distinctive flavours, inviting you to enjoy new takes on her childhood favourites and yours.

Paola’s combination of classical training and self-taught pastry skills means her recipes are accessible no matter your skill level. She’ll be your hype girl through more ambitious projects (you can make a turnover—and a Guava and Cheese one at that), as well as more “set it and forget it” treats, like her Maria Cookie Icebox Cake. Whatever you do, don’t sleep on her signature Thick’ems—giant cookies that are somehow crunchy and gooey—the most requested recipe in Paola’s repertoire and the recipe that made her internet famous, which she shares here for the very first time here. With renditions of traditional Caribbean desserts like Pineapple Empanadillas and Golden Rum Cake alongside twists on classic American treats like sticky buns and brownies, Paola’s unique recipes and infectious positive spirit will help you recreate the magic of the bodega at home—BYO cat.

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Sunflower Rainbow Cookies

MAKES 27 COOKIES

Almond paste is fundamental to so many desserts, and for good reason—it’s delicious. But it’s also expensive, and people with a tree-nut allergy can’t enjoy any recipe that includes it. Can you imagine not being able to eat an Italian rainbow cookie? That doesn’t seem fair. The solution had been staring at me in the bodega this whole time: sunflower seeds. I toast them and make them into a paste. (Really, you can make paste from any seed imaginable, so take this recipe and experiment until you find your paste of choice!)

These sunflower cookies feature tamarind strawberry jam as the filling, but go ahead and use any kind you want. Even store-bought, if you want to save yourself the time.

ITALIAN RAINBOW COOKIES

4 large eggs, separated

1 cup (200 g) sugar

1 cup (200 g) Sunflower Seed Paste (page 218)

1½ cups (3 sticks/340 g) unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

½ cup (120 mL) whole milk

1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons (260 g) all-purpose flour

Pinch of kosher salt

4 drops purple food colouring

3 drops pink food colouring

2 drops yellow food colouring

TAMARIND SYRUP

¼ cup (50 g) sugar

3 tablespoons Tamarind Jam (page 280)

TAMARIND- STRAWBERRY FILLING

½ cup (160 g) strawberry jam

¼ cup (130 g) Tamarind Jam (page 280)

Pinch of citric acid

Pinch of kosher salt

CHOCOLATE TOPPING

2 tablespoons coconut oil

1 cup (170 g) dark chocolate chunks or feves (60% cacao)

MAKE THE COOKIES: Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line three eighth sheet trays (roughly 6 by 9 inches) with parchment paper. Degrease the equipment you are going to use to whip your egg whites (see page 26).

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment or in a large bowl using a hand mixer (or by hand, if you’re stronger than I am), whip the egg whites on medium speed until foamy, 2 to 3 minutes.

Gradually add half the sugar, then increase the mixer speed to high and whip until the egg whites are smooth, glossy, and doubled in volume and have formed stiff peaks, 3 to 4 minutes more. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and set aside. Replace the whisk attachment with the paddle.

I already made you degrease your equipment, so now I’m going to save you some work and say you don’t have to clean the stand mixer bowl before this next step. That’s compromise, baby! Combine the sunflower seed paste and the butter in the mixer bowl (or in a large bowl, if you’re using a hand mixer) and beat on medium speed until soft and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the remaining sugar and mix until pale and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl to make sure all the sugar and butter are combined. With the mixer on high speed, add the egg yolks one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the vanilla and mix until combined, making sure to scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl to get every last bit of vanilla incorporated.

Reduce the mixer speed to low, pour in the milk, and mix until smooth, a minute or two. Turn off the mixer and add the flour and salt, then mix on low speed until the flour is no longer visible.

Divide the batter among three small bowls and tint one purple, one pink, and one yellow. Use a clean spatula to stir each batter so the colour is evenly distributed.

Add a big spoonful of the whipped egg whites to each bowl and, using a rubber spatula, vigorously mix to loosen up the batter. It should drip off the spatula. Add one-third of the remaining egg whites to each bowl and very gently and carefully fold it in with the spatula. There should be some streaks of egg whites visible.

Pour each colour of batter into one of the prepared baking sheets. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the cookies are springy to the touch and their tops are firm but haven’t browned. Remove from the oven and let cool in the pans.

MAKE THE SYRUP: In a small saucepan, combine the sugar and ½ cup (120 mL) water and heat over medium-high heat, gently stirring, just until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat, add the tamarind jam, and whisk until smooth. Set aside.

MAKE THE FILLING: In a medium bowl, combine the strawberry jam, tamarind jam, citric acid, and salt and mix until smooth.

ASSEMBLE THE COOKIES: Brush the tops of the cooled cookies with the tamarind syrup and let soak for 5 minutes.

Using a spatula, spread half the filling over the purple sheet of cookie.

Carefully flip the yellow sheet of cookie so it lands on top of the jam layer on the purple cookie, then peel away the parchment. Spread the remaining jam on top of the yellow layer, then carefully flip the pink cookie so it lands on top of the yellow and peel away the parchment.

You should have a nice stack of cookies, with three layers of color and jam sandwiched between them. 

Place a sheet of parchment on top of the pink layer and place a baking sheet on top. Weigh it down with two heavy cans and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Remove the cookies from the fridge and let them come to room temperature.

MAKE THE TOPPING: Place the coconut oil and chocolate in a microwave-safe medium bowl. Microwave for 30 seconds on high, stopping to stir after 15 seconds, until the chocolate is melted. Stir until smooth.

Pour the chocolate topping over the pink cookie layer and use a spatula to spread it into a thin layer that covers the full rectangle. Wait for a few minutes for the chocolate to set a bit—but don’t wait too long, or it will become too hard and crumble when you cut the cookies. Score the cookies into 1 by 2-inch rectangles, then cut into individual cookies.

Recipe reprinted with permission from Bodega Bakes: Recipes for Sweets and Treats Inspired by My Corner Store by Paola Velez © 2024. Published by Union Square & Co. Photographs © 2024 Lauren V. Allen.