Chicken Soup, Kosher Style by Amy Rosen, Photography by Ryan Szulc
In the Jewish culture, as in many others, bubbes, saftas and nanas are the matriarchs of the kitchen and thus the rulers of the roost. They are culinary giants in quilted polyester muumuus and silk slippers who know how to make the Semitic linchpins cherished from childhood—the kugel, the gefilte fish, the matzah ball soup and the crispy-skinned roasted chicken. They all have their specialties but, of course, they won’t be around to feed us forever, and that will be a loss indeed. But it will be an even bigger loss if the recipes we grew up on pass away with them, along with those special connections to our past.
That’s what prompted Amy Rosen, journalist and cookbook author, to spirit the classic recipes from her grandmothers and other role models into the 21st century. All of the dishes in Kosher Style are inspired by the tables and tales and chutzpah of the North American Jewish experience. They also happen to be kosher.
In this book are all the recipes you need for successful shellfish- and pork-free home entertaining, be it for a Jewish holiday or a workaday dinner. From crave-worthy snacks to family-size salads, soulful mains to show-stopping desserts, all of the recipes are doable in the home kitchen and are clearly marked as either a meat dish, dairy dish, or pareve (neutral).
Think: Lacy Latkes & Applesauce, Sour Cream & Onion Potato Knishes, General Tso’s Chicken, and Toblerone-Chunk Hamantaschen your family will plotz over. In addition to the classics, Amy has included some of her favorite modern recipes, like a Quinoa-Tofu Bowl with Greens & Green Goddess Dressing, Honey-Harissa Roasted Carrots and a Crisp Cucumber & Radish Salad.
Kosher Style is for anyone who likes to cook and loves to eat, and it’s especially for those yearning to create new shared memories around a table brimming with history, loved ones and maple-soy brisket.
A bowl of chicken soup is like Jewish echinacea. In fact, do a double-blind taste test and I think you’ll find this golden broth goes a long way to healing what ails you, heart and soul. (But especially soul.)
1 roasting chicken, giblet bag removed, trimmed of excess fat and rinsed
2 parsnips, peeled and ends chopped off
2 stalks celery with leaves
2 large onions, halved
6 medium carrots, peeled and ends chopped off
1 Tbsp sea salt, plus more to taste
Pepper to taste
1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup chopped dill, plus a few sprigs for
Put the chicken in a very large pot and pour in about 12–14 cups water, making sure lucky is covered. With the stockpot uncovered, bring to a boil, using a slotted spoon to skim and discard the foam that accumulates. Reduce the heat to a simmer and add the whole parsnips, celery, onions and carrots and the salt and pepper. Cook, partially covered, for at least 2 hours (3 hours is better, though). Skim occasionally as foam appears. With about 10 minutes to go, toss in the parsley and dill.
For a pristine broth, remove the chicken, veggies and herbs from the pot and set aside. Strain the soup through a sieve or colander lined with cheesecloth (or a double layer of paper towel), returning the clear broth to a clean pot. Shred or slice the chicken; discard the onions, celery and parsley; and roughly chop the carrots and parsnips and add them back into the soup before serving.
To serve, spoon a ladle or two of broth, then add a few pieces of carrot, parsnip, a bisl of chicken (use the rest for chicken salad sandwiches tomorrow) and a sprig of fresh dill into each bowl. This is even better bejewelled with a couple of matzo balls, meat kreplach or egg noodles. Shabbat shalom.
Recipe reprinted with permission from Appetite by Random House.