Sirloin Tip Roast

Growing up, my parents’ house was dinner party central. Christmas, New Year’s, birthdays, anniversaries and the occasional “come on over for dinner” all seemed to end up in the same kitchen.

My mom’s food was always at the centre of it, which is probably why no one ever seemed in a hurry to leave. There was always room for one more, and somehow there always seemed to be someone who needed a place at the table.

After she passed, I found her dinner party notes. They were more like quiet dispatches from a life lived in courses: menus, ingredients, little reminders and glimpses of all the meals she had prepared for family and friends over the years.

In this series, I’m going back through those notes and recreating one dish from each dinner party. I’ll share the recipe along with her handwritten notes, part memory and part reconstruction, and the stories behind the food I grew up with.

It is also a way of understanding where my own passion for cooking came from.

Because long after the plates were cleared and the guests went home, her food memories never really left the table.

A Life Lived in Courses

September 16, 1995

It was Saturday, September 16, 1995, the beginning of fall. The new television season was getting underway. The days were getting shorter, Alanis Morissette’s Jagged Little Pill was everywhere, and the Expos were still giving Montreal baseball fans something to talk about, even if they weren’t giving us much to celebrate.

The Quebec referendum was six weeks away. We were living in Ontario, so my parents couldn’t vote, but they were very interested in what was happening. Bill Clinton was in the White House. Jean Chrétien was Prime Minister. The war in Bosnia was still dominating the international news, and Pope John Paul II was travelling in Africa.

The O.J. Simpson trial was still on television almost every day. And gas was about 55 cents a litre in Canada, or $1.11 a gallon in the United States.

Any of that might have come up over dinner that night. Or maybe not. There would have been plenty of other things to talk about: family news, neighbourhood gossip, work, television, sports, or whatever had happened that week.

Because this was dinner at my parents’ house.

The guests were my parents and their longtime friends Hélène and her husband, Jean-Marc. Hélène was my mother’s best friend. They had been close for years, and I honestly don’t remember a time when she wasn’t part of our family life. (more…)

El Camino is the most trendy, of-the-moment, “it” hot-spot in Ottawa right now. Imagine a taco stand that’s achingly cool and a haven for O-Town’s social butterflies. Taking no reservations and making eager diners line up forever-and-a-day to gain entry only serves to perpetuate its mystique. But make no mistake about it, the food is worth the wait.

This gourmand outpost built its fast-developing reputation on the strength of the tacos. The tacos are what has lured most. And the tacos are good. Delicious, in fact. We sampled four of the five on the menu: Beef, Cripsy Fish, Pork and Ox Tongue. Surprisingly, the latter was the favourite of the bunch. Tender charred meat was well married with the sloppy collection of sauces, spices and toppings. The fact that the “winning” taco was delectable helped with the reality that I was tasting something that could once taste me back.

But if you’ve come for the tacos, please stay for the salad. What was a throw-away suggestion (…wanna try a salad?”) turned into a gastronomical event of epic proportions. I’m talking about the
Green Papaya Salad. This noteworthy gem combines strips of green papaya, bean sprouts and tomatoes tossed with fish sauce, peanuts, garlic and lime juice. This salad cleverly achieves the artful balance between sweet, spicy, tangy and amazing.

Now, am I suggesting that you run to El Camino to set your place in line with the mob of foodies, stumble-upons and downtown hipsters? Uh, yes. But once you get in, just don’t forget to order the salad.

El Camino is located at 380 Elgin St. in Ottawa.