Sirloin Tip Roast

Growing up, my parents’ house was dinner party central. Christmas, New Year’s, birthdays, anniversaries and the occasional “come on over for dinner” all seemed to end up in the same kitchen.

My mom’s food was always at the centre of it, which is probably why no one ever seemed in a hurry to leave. There was always room for one more, and somehow there always seemed to be someone who needed a place at the table.

After she passed, I found her dinner party notes. They were more like quiet dispatches from a life lived in courses: menus, ingredients, little reminders and glimpses of all the meals she had prepared for family and friends over the years.

In this series, I’m going back through those notes and recreating one dish from each dinner party. I’ll share the recipe along with her handwritten notes, part memory and part reconstruction, and the stories behind the food I grew up with.

It is also a way of understanding where my own passion for cooking came from.

Because long after the plates were cleared and the guests went home, her food memories never really left the table.

A Life Lived in Courses

September 16, 1995

It was Saturday, September 16, 1995, the beginning of fall. The new television season was getting underway. The days were getting shorter, Alanis Morissette’s Jagged Little Pill was everywhere, and the Expos were still giving Montreal baseball fans something to talk about, even if they weren’t giving us much to celebrate.

The Quebec referendum was six weeks away. We were living in Ontario, so my parents couldn’t vote, but they were very interested in what was happening. Bill Clinton was in the White House. Jean Chrétien was Prime Minister. The war in Bosnia was still dominating the international news, and Pope John Paul II was travelling in Africa.

The O.J. Simpson trial was still on television almost every day. And gas was about 55 cents a litre in Canada, or $1.11 a gallon in the United States.

Any of that might have come up over dinner that night. Or maybe not. There would have been plenty of other things to talk about: family news, neighbourhood gossip, work, television, sports, or whatever had happened that week.

Because this was dinner at my parents’ house.

The guests were my parents and their longtime friends Hélène and her husband, Jean-Marc. Hélène was my mother’s best friend. They had been close for years, and I honestly don’t remember a time when she wasn’t part of our family life. (more…)

Skillet-Fried Chicken recipe by Bon Appétit Test Kitchen, Bon Appétit magazine, February 2012.

The Best Thing I Ate This Month
Skillet Fried Chicken, the Bon Appétit recipe that never lets me down

There are fancier things to cook this time of year. Dishes with pedigrees. Garnishes that require tweezers. Sauces that simmer for hours only to reduce into a glossy whisper you can barely taste.

And then there is fried chicken.

Not just any fried chicken, but the skillet fried chicken from Bon Appétit, a recipe I have been cooking for more than a decade. It has been with me so long it no longer reads like instructions on a page. It feels more like muscle memory. Like tying your shoes. Like calling someone you love without thinking twice.

Every year, I make it for my annual Southern Dinner with friends, a loose, comfort heavy spread that leans Southern in spirit but fully Canadian in execution. The table is gloriously crowded, bottles, bowls, and elbows fighting for space like nobody bothered with a seating chart. This chicken is the centrepiece. Not the mac and cheese. Not the dessert. Not whatever sad green vegetable I toss in to look like an adult. The chicken. (more…)